We love to explore. Sometimes our explorations are challenging... such as climbing Kenya's Mount Longonot! A 9,107 ft volcano situated in the Great Rift Valley near Lake Naivasha. We hiked the 3.4 Km (2.1M) trail, gaining 2067 ft, from the valley floor to the crater rim at 8399 ft. The grand caldera below was covered by a thick forest home for snakes and baboons. Taking the adventure further, we continued down a little used shepherd's path along a steep narrow ridge deep into a wilderness of gorges and volcanic plains full of roaming animals and beautiful birds. As we descended, we were greeted by grazing giraffes, zebras and gazelles who hid from the more traveled trail. The resident cape buffalo and leopards were
happily, not seen... Ahh yes... the leopards...
Sometimes our explorations are more relaxing... such as maneuvering among hippos and flooded forests of Lake Navisha while exploring its shores and Cresent Island. It is here where bird life is both spectacular and plentiful...
Sometimes we are not sure what to expect....
I was born and raised in Western Washington USA, home of spectacular mountains, tall evergreen trees, and water... from a multitude of freshwater lakes and rivers to the Pacific Ocean and its grand reach of Puget Sound. Although wildlife is abundant, the one thing we do not have... this side of the mountains... were poisonous snakes...
Juliet was born and raised in Western Kenya near iconic Lake Victoria... second largest freshwater lake in the world... Home of exotic wildlife, volcanic mountains, and tropical vegetation and... plenty of poisonous snakes... Black Mambas, Spitting Cobras, Puff Adders... just to name a few.
Although we share our respect for snakes and what they can do, we do not have the same experiences. My cavalier attitude for exploration often must be tempered by Juliet's real-world experience with these marvelous, but deadly creatures. A fearless woman, Juliet was known as the one who would confront the rouge mamba found in the family's chicken coup. Showing no fear, but healthy respect... It was Juliet that took care of the pending menace, saving the family and the chickens!
Within a short drive from our home is Nairobi National Park. An extremely accessible park located within the boundaries of the county. It is here that we love to spend hours driving our own vehicle, exploring the less travelled roads, hoping to find those elusive animals and birds around that next corner. When it comes to African safaris most visitors in general, and almost all international visitors are looking for the same thing... Wild Animals... specifically, the big five (African Elephant, Black or White Rhinoceros, African Cape Buffalo, Masai Lion and Leopard). We have been blessed to have seen many along with cheetahs, giraffes, zebras, and others except the ever so elusive leopard... We know it is out there... we've been told it exists!... We have even been sent photos by our friends!... but I swear it will be easier for me to find a unicorn! However, when it comes to the first timers and the hired guides, it really is all about the big cats! The difference between an "okay" safari and a "Spectacularly Successful" one. It also is the best guarantee of a generous tip. Therefore, you find two types of driving in the park. The many who are chasing the cats, sometimes in a crazy manner... and the few who have been there, done that and are now avoiding the many... We have become one of the few... So, as we find those less traveled and usually worse roads (Some may claim "cow paths"), our adventure truly begins!
The park itself seems to have two distinct ecosystems as a common layperson like myself can determine. The first landscape and largest are the wide arid grassland plains of the savannah punctuated with steep river valleys of lush green oases below dramatic rock ledges. Here we will find zebras, antelopes, and rhinos along with giraffes, ostriches and maybe... lions and cheetahs. The second is the smaller, much greener forest of the park found mostly along the main entrance and western end of the park. Although we have found giraffes and lions along here, this is the home to forest loving dik-diks, duikers and that elusive unicor...er... leopard... Although we find a huge array of birds in the grassy plains, around the brushland and within the forest, our favorite spots for spotting birds are near the waterholes. A collection of dams throughout the park were created along flowing and seasonal streams that ensure a supply of water for wildlife during the dry periods. Some of these are small and tucked away into the far reaches of the park, sometimes drying out into mere mudholes. Others are large with significant vegetation surrounding the shoreline. The Mokoyet River also traverses the park, usually flowing in some locations even through the dry season. And as most birders know... When you want to see birds... go to the water. Of course, here in this park this is also a wonderful place to see hippos, Nile crocodile, insects, and snakes! As you enter the park, we drive by one of the larger waterholes prior to leaving the tarmac and proceeding on gravel roads.
Nagolomon Dam Reservoir, on the Mokoyet, always seems to have something going on. Weve seen lions, hippos, scores of birds, and crocs. Yet, we were oblivious to what was right there along the side of a road. How we missed it, we have no clue. But we found out from our friends later that evening... a huge Python, resting still, after swallowing a large animal whole! One of the largest snakes in the world! And we missed it!... Someday...maybe... we will be coming across another python again... and notice it! and a leopard too...
In the forest, following a small ubiquitous sign, our exploration found a unique opportunity, Nairobi National Park Tent Camp off the beaten path. I never imagined I could spend a night in the middle of an African national park!... And Juliet never imagined any kind of camping in Africa... period! Now this was new! After convincing Juliet that this would be fun as a perfect second anniversary adventure, we decided to spend one night. We could also make recommendations to our family and friends! The little boy in me quickly overtook any hesitation. This was going to be so cool! Admittedly, this was not the tent camping I did as a kid... This was glamping!
The camp has only nine tents, each fully
enclosed with a porch overlooking the surrounding forest. Furnished with a king-sized bed and breakfast table these "tents" even came with flush toilets, sink and shower! Each tent came with your typical fine touches including African black soap wrapped with a rustic ribbon and lavender shampoo. The tent is completely enclosed to ensure no critters can come in with double zipped flaps. The lounge tent opens to a campfire pit complete with beverages of your choice and a generous bowl of Kenyan macadamias and cashews. The dining tent with African decor and nearby kitchen tent to prepare gourmet dinners and breakfasts. The dinner was well prepared, topped off with an Anniversary cake celebration. When we finished eating, we returned to our room with an escort ranger as insurance from any animals of the night... As we entered the tent, the bed was turned down for us and the light was set dim. The entire tent was void of any misquotes or any other flying insects! Juliet, having lived in Africa most of her life, needed proof as she insisted on looking under the bed and in the corners for any unwanted visitors before the ranger left... For this was a deal breaker... The long day of searching for birds on dusty
roads and sitting by the campfire prompted us to each enjoy showers in the woods. This, however, wasn't your typical shower. Half an hour prior we had to inform our waiter to heat water for two showers. About five minutes after we were zipped up tent tight, we heard a deep voice from outside stating "Your shower is ready". Perfectly tepid water had been prepared and then lifted into a bladder hanging in a tree above the tent. With only a limited supply, we were instructed to only run enough water to get wet... stop the water... lather... and then use the remaining water to rinse off. Juliet was first, wanting to get clean as soon as possible and hop into bed. The pressure was remarkably good. But unfortunately, she ran out before she was completely rinsed having to remove any remaining suds with her towel... minutes later... "Your shower is ready" was announced again... It was my turn, and having learned from my pioneering wife, I carefully turned on the shower with only a light but steady drizzle. Upon completion of my successful rinse, I reached for my towel when in the dead of night, I heard the most awful blood curdling SCREAM from our bed! Like banshees coming to take our souls!!! I immediately ran to Juliet! In that horrifying moment I found myself amazed! I never knew a woman... especially calm, stoic Juliet... could scream that loud and jump that high out of a bed! At least six feet high and straight to the floor!... Terrified... She leaped only once for the door... There was no door!!!! Prior to this night she had never been in a zipped-up tent... "Where the hell is the door! Where is the door!" she thought as she panicked to get out into the dark night... "I FELT SOMETHING!" she cried; her eyes wide with terror... "It's THERE!"... "WARM AND FUZZY!"... "SOMETHING'S..." her voice trembling with fear. Setting aside my amazement for what I had just witnessed, I reached for the bed covers... Juliet was thinking "we're going to die...WE'RE all going to die!" "First it's going to kill Bud! then come after me!... With my heart pounding, slowly, I raised the covers... and carefully I prepared to see... ready to throw the covers back... not knowing exactly what I was going to do next... And there it was....
...An epiphany to our grand and glorious second Anniversary experience!...
... two fuzzy...
... very warm...blue hot water bottles
... brought to warm our bed prior to a cozy sleep in the African forest!...
Trembling, Juliet fell into my arms... Still shaking with fear and laughing with pure ecstasy! I held her tight... laughing with relief and loving every second of her squeezing as close to me as humanly possible! She thought it was our python we wanted to see one day... "BUT NOT IN OUR BED!" ... Needless to say, ... The "gift" was safely removed, without incident, to the breakfast table for the night and we slept chuckling sound to sleep with a celebration we will never forget! Surprisingly, No one, other than me, heard that scream in the dark night forest...
One of the joys of spending the night in the forest is that you are the first to gain access to the National Park in the morning and the last at night. Within the Nairobi NP Tent Camp, nestled not six feet from the ground was a nest created by a pair of African Paradise Flycatchers (Terpsiphone viridis). Although the same species, these birds are highly variable. We have found two types in Nairobi National Arboretum, Lake Naivasha, Karura Forest Ngong Road Forest, and Nairobi National Park. We have also seen them within our own backyards in Karen and Kilimani! The rufous type has little white on its outer wings and tail while the intermediate type shows a significant amount of white plumage. We have yet to see the white and black morphs.
The males have exceptionally long tail wings used to show-off when mating whereas the females are more modest with their shorter tails. Though their bodies are small they are splendid, perched on a branch or flying effortlessly through the trees. The pair of rufous type, in the park, shared equal duties warming and protecting the nest as well as hunting for insects. The nest was never left without one parent on it. Although prevalent throughout the parks and forests of Nairobi and the Great Rift Valley, it can be difficult finding them in the open. The best opportunities have been near the smaller waterholes and puddles in the forests or low in the trees and brush.
Here the intermediate type African Paradise Flycatcher male shows off his tail, which is four times the size of his body, while hunting insects above a small, seasonal forest waterhole.
Another male intermediate type watches for close flying insects with his beautiful wattle eyes
This is a typical example of how we usually see these beautiful birds. This one is hiding amongst invasive eucalyptus trees. We ask "Don't be shy!" but they seldom listen....
This female below shows a more whitish-blue breast and pale tail. There are examples of intergrade among all types of the species. These birds are recognized by cheerful rhythmic chattering and abrupt two note call similar to a Stellar's Jay in North America.
Ninety-five kilometers from Nairobi is Lake Naivasha in the Great Rift Valley where this juvenile male was found.
This female rufous type with a colorful blue breast was found out our front door villa in Karen. About five miles from the national park.
Like a torpedo diving, the African Paradise Flycatcher folds it wings as it maneuvers through the trees focused on its targeted snack.
This is our story. Just one of so many stories and birds we have found when we just stop and listen and open our eyes! Much more to follow.... The adventure is just beginning!
