There is 10,000 miles between Washington State on the North American continent and Kenya on the African. To be specific 9,041 miles between our Clear Lake home near Yelm and our villa in Karen, near Nairobi as the Northern Wheatear flies. This long distance is daunting with challenges and issues, as Juliet and I conceded early in our relationship. But with that distance comes new experiences of wonder along with insightful revelations that one side on this earth is very much the same as the other. One of the beauties of living in Washington State is that by driving only short distances in this relatively small area of the Pacific Northwest you are transported into completely different environments… From vast forests of magnificent trees to wide landscapes of near arid plains. From microcosms of dense temperate rainforests to rocky terrains of washed-out coulees strewn with jagged landscapes and unlikely glacial erratic. Spectacular rock formations crash into the Pacific Ocean eventually melting into wide sandy beaches and bays. Rolling hills of wheat. Huge circles of irrigated land made possible by the Columbia and Snake Rivers. Once arid hillsides teaming with vineyards and fruit trees. Dairy farms and berry fields. Hills and valleys punctuated by towns and cities. The majestic Cascade Mountains with grand, snow and glacier covered volcanoes. The Blue Hills and the Selkirk Range branching west from the Rockies and Puget Sound… A web of waterways molded by ancient glaciers creating fingers of saltwater wonderlands far from the oceans rage and power. All of this within a day’s drive from home. For Juliet and I, we are blessed in our lives to find that Washington State is not alone with diversity of environments. Such is also the case for our corner of Africa we also call home. Kenya’s landscapes are extremely diverse… from the reefs and beaches of the Indian Ocean to the lakes of the Great Rift Valley and the shores of Lake Victoria… Home to Kit Mikayi… a natural castle like tor, rising about 120 meters (almost four hundred feet) from the alluvial lake plains!
From the lush green Hills surrounding Nairobi and West Kenya to the Mountainous regions of Meru and Mau summit, home to fields of tea, coffee, and flowers. From the arid but lush Taita Hills and plains of the Tsavo to the dry and dusty lands of Turkana. From the productive farms of the high country to the last vestiges of Rainforest in Kakamega.
Much of the central and western parts of Kenya average well over a mile high (1.6+ Km) altitude! Our home near Nairobi is only 499 Km (310 m) from Mombasa on the Indian Ocean and yet we are at an elevation of 6,180 feet! “Mile high” Denver at 5280 feet, is 1,740 Km (1,080 m) from Galveston on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico. The rapid rise of elevation, along with the massive tectonic and volcanic landscapes, create a multitude of wet environments and rain shadows resulting in an extremely diverse array of micro-ecosystems. There is a fragile relativity with geography and its relationship to the environment. Weather often comes from the Indian Ocean, but it is also the vast African continent and effects created by the great lakes, notably Victoria, which determine amounts of rainfall. Latitude blurs the meaning of four seasons, but also defines the course of every day in our life. Directly west, the sun sets over Lake Victoria. Every day around 6:30PM… year-round. And it will arrive again around 6:30 AM on the Indian Ocean horizon. There is no true winter here, although there may be shimmering glimpses of snow on the peaks of Kilimanjaro, Kenya, or Elgon during the cool season of June and July. However, even this is becoming rarer with global climate change.
Recently, Juliet and I took a 300+Km (~190m) trip from Nairobi into the Mountain Region of Central Kenya. Home to cloud shrouded Mount Kenya… a rugged, multi pinnacle, dormant volcano that reaches 5,199 meters (17,058 ft). Only ten miles from the equator, it is the second highest mountain in Africa. Once heavily glaciated and eroded to reveal volcanic plugs, it would remind a naïve American of the northern Rockies rather than the younger volcanos of the Cascade Range. With consistent seasonal rainfall, there are still a couple of small, rapidly shrinking glaciers providing water sources to its forested slopes. The mountain itself is a national park. But outside the park, the slopes and moraines are a significant agricultural center for the country. West of Mount Kenya is the Aberdare Range with its forests protected by another National Park. English Royal fans know it was here that Princess Elizabeth was vacationing in a treehouse a day before her father, George VI’s death. As we traveled over the highway towards our destinations, we found significantly different environments. Within fifteen miles, we passed rolling fields of wheat, then lush tropical forests of broad-leafed evergreens before reaching a dramatic drop off the mountain plateau to a hot, dry plain with sand and acacia punctuated by cinder cone hills and the occasional palm tree.
Our first destination was Ol Pejeta Conservancy on the equator near the town of Nanyuki on the northwest shoulder of the mountain. It was here for the first time, and while still wearing my proverbial shorts, I found myself shivering in the cold. And being the prepared planner that I was… I had no jacket. Fortunately, Juliet had a jacket back in our Sweetwater tent camp... but it was an hour from our van, and we couldn't miss what we might see!
Yes… another tent… as glamourous as Nairobi National Park with a full restaurant lodge… And Yes… Complete with hot water bottles to warm the bed…
Known as the last reserve to house the now functionally extinct northern white rhino (the last male died here in 2018) There are also numerous black rhinos and transplanted southern white rhinos. Ol Pejeta is also home to the Sweetwater Chimpanzee Sanctuary. Although not native to Kenya, this provides lifelong refuge to orphaned and rescued chimps from around the world. Our time here was short, allowing limited time to visit the Chimps, do the chilly game drive and visit the obligatory blind black rhino, “Baraka”, who is allowed to be petted and fed by visitors. Despite our short stay we were also able to see several birds including a noisy morning wake-up courtesy of the Meyer’s Parrot (Poicephalus meyeri). This beautiful small parrot can be found in diverse types of woodland from the sparse acacia in the high plains to the more wet and dense forests of Western Kenya. It is considered quite common, however, this being the first African parrot I saw, I was thrilled. Juliet's brothers remember growing up with them in Kisumu... unfortunately they are no longer there due to the loss of forest land. With their pretty plumage, these birds are bred for the pet trade and are capable of mimicking words and sounds and with yellow wings, are quite spectacular flying.
Immediately outside our tent, we found a young Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias caudatus), called the national bird of Kenya, and common throughout the entire country except the northern desert. These birds tend to perch on prominent branches, often overlooking grasslands and meadows. When in flight, the adult bird spectacularly displays vivid shades of blue and lilac.
Throughout the resort at Ol Pejeta, the vivacious and noisy Ruppell's Starling (Lamprotomis purpuroptera) common through Central and West Kenya.
The significantly longer tail and cream-colored eyes of this bird distinguish it from other similarly colored starlings. Unlike other starlings in Kenya, this one can sound beautiful at times as well as obnoxiously harsh and noisy.
In our biased opinion, the most beautiful starlings are found in Africa... specifically, Kenya. And the most beautiful of them all is the Superb Starling (Lamprotomis superbus). This prolific bird will be found throughout Kenya. And you will not miss it! This loud, noisy bird chatters with a chip on its shoulder.... Telling you off while stealing your cookie... coming down on your van as if they know other humans have been known for feeding them before. When you see this bird for the first time, you will be awestruck... and by the end of your journey you will consider it to be a gorgeous pest! This was our first bird that we defined as "a dime a dozen"... Oh, but what a "superb" dozen!
The Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armatus) is a noisy bird... unmistakable and irritating. Like metal scratching metal with persistent anger. Found along ponds and wetlands throughout different environments in East Africa, this bird was surprisingly among the Rhinos in grasslands far from any water.
Another common grassland species found throughout is the Yellow-necked Spurfowl (Plemistis Leucoscepus). We will often see
them along the roadside, scampering only after we are on top of them. Like other francolin species, these social birds are usually found in small families, often gathering around scrub-brush and acacia acting like domestic chickens or Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris) below. Mostly on the ground, they will fly short distances to get away, sometimes even perching on the same shrubs or small trees they hide under.
As with most of our game drives, we found Ol Pejeta champion many species of animals including the African Cape Buffalo, the Olive Baboon and Cape Bushbuck. However, it is the Rhinoceros that prevails at this protected conservatory. Despite the ecological tragedy of the Northern White Rhino, the native Black Rhino and the introduced Southern White Rhino thrive on the high plains and among the wooded ravines.
A young Olive Baboon clings on for the safety and comfort of her forging mother. Baboons travel in small families to large troops of two hundred or more, following the food and water. They can be aggressive towards humans... especially when food is involved.
The unpredictable African Cape Buffalo is often considered more dangerous than the big cats by the Maasi... When we drive up on a single bull... and he does not move... or aggressively approaches... it's best to reverse and find another route... This can happen more often than you would think!
There are seventy-eight species of antelopes in Africa. This juvenile Harnessed Bushbuck spent the morning grazing in front of our tent without a care for us, reminding us of the White-tailed deer in the Pacific Northwest of North America. The bushbucks are found throughout the temperate woodland forests, but are often hard to spot, preferring the protection of heavy brush and shadows. Grant's Zebra is found through much of central Kenya's high-altitude grassland plains. Smaller than the common Plain's Zebra of the Tsavo, their stripes are broad and well defined. Manes are often short with a well-trimmed mohawk style.
Impala antelope mothers lead this season's just born young grazing among the brush as they keep an eye out for danger.
All rhinoceroses are grey and herbivore ... That said, the terms "White and Black" Rhinos seem misnomers and could be difficult to tell apart. But there is a difference. The native Black Rhinoceros is a browser, preferring tree and bush branches as food. Therefore, the snout of the Black has a triangular "hook" that is used to pull leaves and branches.
The Southern White Rhinoceros are grazers, preferring grass and herbs. Their snouts are very wide and flat with no hook. They are often found with iconic wide-open vistas on the plains and along hillsides. Rhinos are very protective of their young and remain in family groups for years, before males move on when they begin their mating years.
A mother White Rhino resting with her youngster in the cold evening. It was below 10C (50F) as we sat watching these magnificent animals straddling the equator.... And I'm in my shorts and T-shirt.... with no coat.... brilliant.
Another family of Southern White Rhinos. Unlike the Northern White, there has been some success with the propagation of this still endangered species.
Thank you for reading our stories. More to follow....
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